Yale Sustainable Food Program

Cooling the Tropics | Workday and Book Launch feat. Professor Hi'ilei Hobart

Friday, September 22nd was a special day on the farm. Just a quick glance at the Old Acre revealed that something was different: the Farm was decked out in marigold streamers, Farm flower bouquets, and white tablecloths for the book launch of Cooling the Tropics: Ice, Indigeneity, and Hawaiian Refreshment by Profesor Hi'ilei Hobart.

The workday was the most routine part of the afternoon, yet spectacular. The week's drizzle halted for students to harvest a bounty of sweet potatoes and do a thorough weeding job around the beds and chicken coop. Students also de-installed infrastructure such as posts and tarps in several beds to transition for the coming season. 

After an afternoon of work, students, professors, and community members alike gathered around the Lazarus Pavilion for a panel honoring Profesor Hobart's latest book.

Professors Ned Blackhawk (Yale University), Jodi Byrd (Cornell University), Jean O'Brien (University of Minnesota), and Noenoe Silva (University of Hawaii Mānoa) gave their reflections on Professor Hobart's book, noting its unique analysis of how culture, infrastructure, and colonialism on the islands relate to the popularity of frozen treats, from ice cream to shave ice. Hobart’s opening remarks focused on the unidentified girl that marks her book’s cover. Analyzing the representation of Hawaiian people in frozen treat marketing campaigns serve as an entry point into the book’s themes—the impact of constructions of whiteness, Indigenous identities and food systems, supply chain networks, the tourism economy, and more. 

After the panel, Joshua Ching '26, Helen Shanefield '26, and Jairus Rhoades '26 performed a moving hula to close out the program. The celebrations did not stop there. Soon after, attendees were treated to a bounty of fresh pizza, cold drinks, and, of course, some Farm-made shave ice in delicious flavor iterations of hibiscus, passionfruit, and ginger. While centered around cool treats, the Farm exuded an extra poignant sense of warmth.

Much gratitude goes out to Professor Hobart for sharing her scholarship with us, the Yale Center for the Study of Race, Indigeneity, and Transnational Migration for collaborating with YSFP on this event, as well as all who made the trip to New Haven to be there to learn and celebrate. 

To many more beautiful afternoons like this one together. 

Photos from the event by Grace Cajski ‘24 can be viewed here

Update [October 9, 2023]: a more extensive article on the book launch and Prof. Hobart’s journey was published by the Yale Herald and written by Joshua Ching ‘26.

The Intersection of Ceramics and Agriculture | Workday and knead 2 know feat. Calista Washburn '24

On Friday, September 16th, a gorgeous and cool sun shone upon the Old Acre as students rounded out the first full week of classes of the semester with a workday and knead 2 know, programs run by YSFP up until mid-November.

This week, students harvested buckets of pinto beans, hops to make Yale Ale, crispy red apples soon-to-be pressed, and gigantic zucchini—some which were so large the women’s rugby team used them to conduct a few passing drills, before returning the veggies to their rightful spot in the cooler. A great turnout made the harvesting an incredible group effort.

The Old Acre is getting lots of love as students work to transition the beds for the changing season. In addition to the harvest haul, students composted material, scuffled and weeded several plots, and removed fences, hoops, and fabric to make way for the planting of new crops. Students also picked marigold flowers to be strung as garlands to decorate the Lazarus Pavilion.

After the workday, students headed to the Lazarus Pavilion for pizza with delicious end-of-summer toppings such as corn, fresh tomatoes, and zucchini jam (sensing a theme?). Students were treated to a fascinating presentation by Lazarus Summer Intern Calista Washburn '24, who explored the relationship between agriculture and ceramics by detailing her summer project harvesting clay from Old Acre soil. Washburn detailed the difference between sand, silt, and clay, and her evaporation process which allowed her to excavate clay from the soil on the Farm. Washburn spoke of the use of ollas, clay pots whose name originates from Spanish and Spanish-colonized areas, however has been a traditional irrigation practice across Indigenous communities across the world. Ollas, full of water, are buried in agricultural terrain, and osmosis through the clay creates a steady source of irrigation. Washburn intends to construct an olla with some of the clay she excavated this summer. She also brought clay and ceramic samples for students to engage with.

If you missed this Friday, don’t worry; the stellar Knead 2 Know lineup continues. This Friday, the Farm is partnering with the Program in Ethnicity, Race, and Migration to host a book launch for Yale Professor Hi'ilei Julia Kawehipuaakahaopulani Hobart’s Cooling the Tropics: Ice, Indigeneity, and Hawaiian Refreshment (2022). The reading and panel with Jodi Byrd, (Cornell University), Ned Blackhawk (Yale University), Jean O'Brien (University of Minnesota), and Noenoe Silva (University of Hawaii Mana) will begin at 4:30 PM with pizza and refreshments at 5:30 PM. Rumor has it that shave ice is involved...

Photos from Friday by Reese Neal '25 and Grace Cajski '24 are available here, and photos from Sunday by Arrow Zhang '26 are available here.

Food and Faith at Zumwalt Acres | Workday and knead 2 know feat. Miriam Levine '25

Despite a few encouraging signs of early autumn weather, the past week has been remarkably hot and humid. Still and all, dozens of students braved the sweltering weather to come to the first workday of the semester, where they helped manage the profusion of late summer produce. We weeded the carrot field, scuffled the arugula beds, and harvested hops for our forthcoming batch of "Yale Ale," with plenty of breaks for cold water straight from the pump. 

Students then gathered under the Lazarus Pavilion for an engaging presentation by Food and Faith Fellow Miriam Levine '25, who spent her summer at Zumwalt Acres, a regenerative agriculture community in Sheldon, Illinois. Levine said her dream in life is to start a commune for pregnant people and new parents, so she was “really excited about learning how to build intentional community, especially with an emphasis on land stewardship.” 

After generations of being farmed with standard industrial practices, Zumwalt now strives to model what organic regenerative agriculture can look like in the heart of soy and corn country. The farm practices crop rotation, composting, minimal and no-till agriculture, and mulching. They also employ agroforestry strategies, relying on a “shelter belt” of fruit and nut trees to not only produce food but also protect the crops from pesticide from neighboring farms. 

They attempt to share this approach with the surrounding community through a variety of partnerships and special events. This summer, Zumwalt hosted a Perennial Soil Health event, which drew 50 farmers from the surrounding area to learn about regenerative practices. Levine acknowledged that she had “a lot of preconceived notions” about a region known for its industrial agriculture, but “being able to talk with these farmers, and hear how they’re noticing how their plants and their soil and the ecology have changed over time, and their fear about climate change and how dedicated they are to working on this topic, was incredibly meaningful.” 

Zumwalt is both a farm and a research and learning center. Levine specialized in mushroom cultivation, researching the power of fungi to decompose plastic, build homes on a substrate of human waste, and break down radioactive waste and petroleum. In partnership with the Planavsky Lab over in Yale’s Department of Earth & Planetary Sciences, Zumwalt Acres is also researching basalt, a volcanic rock that can sequester carbon and release nutrients into the soil when used as a natural fertilizer. 

The community is led by Jewish values. In addition to weekly Shabbat dinners and regular Jewish learning, the farm observes traditions like shmita, treating every seventh year as a year of rest for the soil and a time to give back to the surrounding community. They also follow pe’ah, the obligation to leave the corners of each field for those who cannot grow their own food — or, in Zumwalt’s case, donating that produce to a local food pantry. 

We thank Levine for her insightful talk, and we thank everyone who attended the knead2know and volunteered at our workday. This Friday, our knead2know will be led by Calista Washburn ’24, a Lazarus Summer Intern who spent the summer on the Old Acre learning about soil and clay harvests and its relationship historically to irrigation practices. 

Miriam was the recipient of the Food & Faith Fellowship Award, sponsored by the Joseph Slifka Center for Jewish Life at Yale with support from the Yale Sustainable Food Program. Learn more by searching “Zumwalt” in the Student Grants Database.

The Farm as Classroom

The Yale Sustainable Food Program prides itself on growing food-literate leaders “on the farm, in the classroom, and around the world.” But what happens when farm and classroom are combined? Over the last year, many Yale professors have brought their classes to the Yale Farm, whether for a moment of personal reflection, a discussion of land politics, or an exploration of botanical science. While students finalized their decisions about what classes to take this semester, YSFP Communications Manager Sadie Bograd ‘25 spoke with a range of instructors about the ways in which the Farm can be fertile ground for learning. 



Hi’ilei Hobart, Indigenous Food Sovereignty (ER&M 316)

For students in ER&M 316, the class visit to the Farm was both instructive and restorative. 

“So much of the story about Indigenous food comes out of these really difficult and challenging histories of settler colonial dispossession and erasure,” Professor Hobart said. “The Farm… gave students a lot of breathing space to build community with each other, to exhale just a little bit.”

“Teaching about the food system in a thoughtful way can feel a lot like doom and gloom,” she added. “So taking moments of actual joy becomes really important.”

The visits were also a form of “embodied practice” that helped students think about growing practices and labor in new ways. The class strung marigolds, tasted ciders, harvested crops, and assisted with Fall Feast, the annual celebration co-sponsored by the YSFP and the Native American Cultural Center. 

Dr. Hobart spoke to the limitations on the Farm’s ability to promote Indigenous food sovereignty, given its small size, non-Indigenous leadership, and position within the institution of Yale. Still, she noted that practices like sourcing seeds from Indigenous seedkeepers, planting a Three Sisters garden, and growing plants in ways that honor their heritage can “really make a difference.” 

More broadly, the Farm “gives space to allow people to come together thoughtfully [and] meaningfully,” she said. “Breaking bread together is not an uncomplicated process, but it so often does a lot to remind us that we are in community, even though that community can sometimes feel incohesive.” 

Rachel Kauder Nalebuff, Reading and Writing the Modern Essay (ENGL 120) 

As part of a unit on writing about place, Nalebuff takes each of her ENGL 120 sections to a distinctive spot on campus, like the YUAG or the Beinecke. Last fall, her students ventured farther north to the Old Acre for an exercise in “noticing what you notice.” They spent forty-five minutes sitting or wandering the Farm in silence, writing down whatever they observed.

“I really want to encourage my students to think about what it is that they can say about a place that no one else could say,” Nalebuff said. “Eventually you start to see things in new ways if you just spend enough time in a place.” 

Nalebuff noted that the Yale Farm is a uniquely potent site for observation. “Being in any place, but maybe nature especially, often brings up personal memories,” she said. “A smell, or a certain kind of wind.” For students, the session on the Farm also formed an enjoyable experience that diverged from the pace of the indoor classroom. As she observed her students’ observations, Nalebuff felt that the class entered a “peaceful state” instead of having to “push through boredom.”

“It was such a spirited class, and everyone was grateful to be there and was so present,” she said. “It was one of those moments where the lessons of writing and of leading an engaged life felt so intertwined.” 

Linda Puth, Plants and People (E&EB 145) and The Ecology of Food (E&EB 035)

Dr. Puth specializes in interdisciplinary science classes that are accessible without prerequisites. Her courses “highlight some of the strengths of the Yale campus that a lot of students never know are there until their senior year” — a list on which the Yale Farm is at the top. 

Visits to the Farm bring Puth’s lectures to life. For example, the Farm’s wheat field showcases how plants evolve with domestication. Wild wheat has a center stalk that breaks apart when the grains are mature, dispersing the seeds widely so they don’t compete with the parent plant. But agricultural varieties evolved so that the stalk wouldn’t shatter, making them easier to harvest. 

The class visits also explore nutrient cycling, pest control, and different systems of agriculture.

Puth is currently on leave to lecture at Yale-NUS College. Although the classes she teaches there are similar in theme, she has adapted the content to Singapore’s tropical location. 

“Some of the students here have never been outside of the tropics and so they are used to constant day length — in Singapore, the day length changes by about 10 minutes per day over the entire year,” Puth said. “There’s never a freezing time. The seasonality is mainly just rainfall. So it's a very different system here and being able to talk about seasonal agriculture is a wonderful contrast.” 

Puth’s class has explored these contrasts through guest discussions with Farm Manager Jeremy Oldfield, as well as through site visits to in-ground, rooftop, and vertical farms in the area. 

Sophy Naess, Painting Time (ART 332) 

In a class about representing time in painting, there’s no better place to go than the Farm. ART 332 students make multiple trips to the Farm over the course of the semester, witnessing the Old Acre’s evolution over both a four-hour class and an entire season. The visits thus allow students to explore the passage of time on the small scale (like the changing light between late afternoon and early evening) and the large (like the growing and ripening of a field). 

The class trips generate conversations about themes of pastoralism and labor, Naess said. 

The Farm enables “thinking about the idea of nature as some kind of force to behold, as a romantic idea, versus thinking about the way that the space has to be constructed and cultivated,” she elaborated. “Conversations about that come up when talking about composition, framing. Are you representing the labor that happens here through looking at the wheelbarrow, or the shipping container that holds the tools?” 

There are also countless opportunities to develop technical skills: working with figure and background, movement and abstraction, and above all, color.

The Farm is “so resplendent with color,” Naess said. “We really get into the myopic examination of the incredible range of color that exists within a small area of a garden.” 



Max Chaoulideer, The Politics of Food (ENGL 114)

Chaoulideer’s writing seminar focused on many contentious topics in our contemporary food systems: urban agriculture, conscientious consumerism, the romanticization of agrarian life, contests over land usage and ownership. The class visit to the Yale Farm was a way to explore all of that. 

According to Chaoulideer, Oldfield explained how the Old Acre is an “educational farm” more than an “agricultural” one. With its limited footprint, the Yale Farm will never produce enough to feed all of Yale’s campus. Instead, it serves as a space to “question or disrupt the status quo” through the crops it grows, the practices it employs, and the space it creates.

“A common throughline in the class was how to think about food both as a very concrete, practical, nutritional substance [and] as a kind of political tool,” Chaoulideer said. “For a lot of students, it was a new concept that… the place and process of growing could raise critical questions.” 

The Farm became a reference for that kind of critical agriculture, Chaoulideer said. The YSFP is constantly exploring how it relates to Yale Dining, to the university as a whole, and to different parts of the New Haven community — “raising questions about what the Farm should be or could be.”  


Many thanks to all these instructors for their time and generosity. This semester, new classrooms are coming to the Old Acre, including students from ENGL 114: Matters of Color / Color Matters, ARCH 1021: Architectural Design 3, ENG 114: What We Eat, and HSAR 553: Embodied Artisanal Knowledge. 

All Pib Slow Play | GFF '22

The pib's cooking process relies on hot stones, fired in the pit, to hold and release heat.

All Pib Slow Play: A Sedimentation of History and Sound (APSP) is a hybrid decelerationist music and food programming project. It sets cumbia rebajada (slowed cumbia) and ambient sounds to the cooking of tamales using an underground pit-roasting method: the Pib. All Pib Slow Play was conceptualized and designed by Miguel Gaydosh beginning in 2021. This is an ongoing project and research will continue to be gathered on the Arena channel Suena la Cumbia, with occasional updates made to the website.

 Listen to a mix here

The project is named after a record by DJ Screw and a letter to Elysia Crampton. APSP is a means to research, practice, and evolve traditions that generations of Indigenous families have kept alive across the Americas, while sharing the fruits of this process and celebrating the soil.

Chef Sandra Trigeuros and family preparing and cooking the primary dishes throughout the evening.

APSP synthesized after learning about Rosalia Chay Chuc’s traditional cooking methods in the Yucatán, which sparked memories of my family's tamales and pib cooking in Southwestern Guatemala. These inspired me to revisit cumbia rebajada videos found online, and realize the potential of combining the pib’s ancient slow cooking techniques with slowed cumbia’s intoxicating rhythms.

As a performance, APSP centers slowness as a vehicle, and Kency Cornejo and Diana Taylor’s ideas of embodied acts “as an essential mode of cultural, spiritual and social representation and transmission of knowledge," to awaken a resistance to Yomaira Figueroa's concept of destierro (uprooting) through memories of home/lands and land practices.

 "They used to have very detailed history books. But when the Spaniards came, they burned thousands of them. So they had to pass all the information by mouth."
Ricardo Muñoz
Chef's Table: BBQ Season 1,
Episode 4: “Rosalia Chay Chuc”
2020

While the first iteration of APSP was about sharing food on a farm and broadcasting on Local Radio, the next version will focus on the idea of a social sculpture in an urban pocket forest—at Cactus Store NY's garden this Summer—as a space for people to gather and learn through programming surrounding the idea of deceleration.

Guests and students learned hands-on through food preparation.

APSP is an investigation of the potential for socio-ecological interfaces—bringing ‘nature’ and ‘culture,’ the ancient and contemporary, together through living forms—from the ground beneath our feet to sounds reverberating down city blocks.

 “Not an earthquake but an accretion, a sedimentation of history and sound [...] I don’t think I’ve ever listened to anything so geologic. A certain chemical trace inheres, like the smell of rock after rain, recording or suggesting things now invisible but not gone.”
Jeffery J. Cohen
"A Letter from Jeffrey J. Cohen to Elysia Crampton,” DIS Magazine
2015

APSP is a chance to move slower with and closer to the earth through a mixing of sounds, flavors, and links lost and found. Digging beneath the surface of our daily accelerationist culture, pib and rebajada methods come together to manipulate space and time, unearthing impossible moments in cavities of potential.

Laser-etched banana leaves served as as informal placemats.

Thank you to Sandra Trigueros and her family, Geovanni Barrios, Jacqueline Munno, Isabel Rooper, Pancho Blood, Jeemin Shim, and Kyle Richardson. The first volume of All Pib Slow Play was supported by the Yale Sustainable Food Program, and Yale School of Art's inaugural student-curated exhibition, No White Walls.

You can find more information on allpibslowplay.org and Miguel will be sharing updates on Instagram in the coming months.

A crowd of students and guests gathered under the Pavilion to eat, drink, and learn.

Alumni Interviews | Kate Anstreicher '18

A successful crop needs support in order to thrive: insects to pollinate it, people to weed it, sunshine and water to help it grow. Farms, too, cannot thrive in isolation. That’s where the Glynwood Center for Regional Food and Farming comes in. Founded in 1997, Glynwood is an agricultural nonprofit which builds connections between and provides resources to food systems actors in the Hudson Valley. As Glynwood’s Program Manager, YSFP alumna Kate Anstreicher ’18 helps manage the Hudson Valley CSA Coalition, the Food Sovereignty Fund, and other initiatives. In this interview with YSFP communications manager Sadie Bograd ’25, Anstreicher explains the crucial role that stakeholder-driven partnerships play in sustaining a thriving agricultural community. 

This conversation is part of a Voices series about the exciting work YSFP alumni are doing in the world of food and agriculture. The transcript has been edited lightly for length and clarity.

What is the Glynwood Center for Food and Farming? What do you do as program manager?

Glynwood’s mission is to ensure that the Hudson Valley remains a region defined by food and farming where farmers can thrive. One main part of Glynwood’s work is our regional food programs, where we help build producer coalitions in the Hudson Valley to assist with things like collective marketing and skill sharing. I manage the Hudson Valley CSA [community supported agriculture] coalition and help with communications, website development, and other parts of various projects. 

Since land is so fragmented in this region, a lot of farms are small-scale, diversified vegetable operations, for which CSA is a good model. In 2016, we founded the CSA coalition and received grant funding to build a central website with a directory where consumers can search for farms near them using their zip code, what sort of things they want in a CSA share, and how they want to pay for it. That's been an important, centralized way for CSA farms to promote their offerings. We also organize an annual winter summit where we promote peer learning. 

One of our earliest regional food programs was working with cider makers and apple growers. The alcoholic cider industry has grown a lot in the United States in the past 10 or 15 years, and New York is no exception. Glynwood saw an opportunity to help large-scale apple producers create a value-added product in the early 2000s. We got funding to send cider makers, apple growers, and other restaurateurs and spirits experts on several international trips to see other regions in which cider is a proud and long-standing industry. Those international exchanges helped grow the industry and provide technical assistance. We're still doing a lot of cider work, but our work also resulted in the founding of a separate organization, the New York Cider Association, which does advocacy to make sure that New York’s laws are supportive of cider makers. Lately, they’ve been working on doorstep delivery and shipping. Right now, there's this weird bottleneck: New York cider producers can ship their product to consumers in other states, but I could not order a bottle of cider from a New York producer to have it arrive at my door.

Those sound like valuable partnerships. What else does Glynwood do? 

Our food access work has expanded since the pandemic. We founded our Food Sovereignty Fund in the spring of 2020 with an advisory council of farmers, food pantry representatives, and other folks across the region who were concerned about the increase in food insecurity at the onset of the pandemic. The Food Sovereignty Fund aims to channel more fresh produce and meat and dairy products into the emergency food system—although what we call an “emergency” is really a chronic issue in our country. We build contracts and pay farms in advance to grow food for food access partners and their communities, whether that is a food pantry run out of a church or a larger organization that also makes hot meals. We prioritize building relationships with farms that are run by historically marginalized farmers, including BIPOC, queer, and female farmers. This year, we contracted about $300,000 to 22 different farms who distributed food to 20 different food access partners.

We have a farm on site that's over 230 acres. In 2007, we started our farmer training programming, in which apprentices learn sustainable vegetable and livestock farming practices. We also help organize apprenticeships at other farms. A lot of farms want to help train the next generation of farmers, but they don't necessarily have the time or the resources to provide educational opportunities to their employees. We're able to pay those farmers for a four-hour workshop, for example, so they still get their hourly wage but can come to Glynwood. 

We build additional revenue for our mission-related work through site rental. We're really close to the city, so people want to get married in the Hudson Valley. Model Hailey Bieber and her husband, Justin Bieber, came for a photo shoot once because Hailey was modeling for Vogue. They ended up using one of our goats. 

I’ve seen some recent reporting that land prices have become a big issue for farmers in the region. Could you elaborate on these and other challenges that farmers face in the Hudson Valley? 

There is a competing interest in the beauty of the landscape. Particularly during the pandemic, a lot of New Yorkers found it scary to live in the city, and the Hudson Valley became a very popular destination for people to settle down, to buy land, to have a family. I really don't blame them, but that has put a lot of pressure on the land market, and land values are astronomically high. Land access is a huge issue here for farmers who want to start a farm from scratch, especially first-generation farmers who don't have that much collateral and aren't inheriting land. Luckily, there are a lot of organizations in place that can help acquire land and found these incubator parcels. 

Land access includes housing. The market here is honestly terrifying. I'm a salaried employee at a relatively well-resourced nonprofit, but the Beacon housing prices are a stretch for me. For people in a farm crew making $16 an hour, I can't even imagine how hard it is. I've heard stories from farmers who've said that they have tried to hire someone, and then that person can't find housing, so they can't take the job.

Something else that has shifted in the past five years alone is the climate crisis and the severity of the climate disasters that are occurring on an annual basis, even in our region. It’s the whole gambit: both too little water and too much water and crazy wind storms and hail storms in the middle of the summer and tropical storms. 


You said that your mission is to maintain the Hudson Valley as a region defined by farming. What does the agricultural landscape look like? 

This has been a bustling region for thousands of years. The Hudson River has always been a river of commerce and was stewarded by Indigenous populations for generations. At the beginning of colonialism, the Hudson Valley became a region that freighted food to New York City. 

There are a lot of vegetable farms and orchards. You need to drive further north or west to get to crops like corn and soy. The land is too valuable here for that commercial scale. We also have some awesome raw milk dairies in the region, including sheep and goat dairies. It's harder to find big enough parcels of land for large-scale livestock production, especially for cattle. But I know of a lot of people who are raising broilers and laying hens.

It's amazing how robust the farming community is here. There are some multi-generational farms around, but the Hudson Valley is also a bastion for young farmers, first-generation farmers. We have an incredibly robust queer farming community and increasingly BIPOC farming community, in large part thanks to farms that are very intentionally building that community, like Soul Fire Farm, Rock Steady Farm, Sweet Freedom Farm. They're all advocating for food justice and for the training of BIPOC farmers and queer farmers, and they’re building a safe space for those farmers. Chaseholm Farm is a queer-owned, third-generation, grass-fed dairy, and they have a dairy drag show every June that's popular among farmers. 

How does Glynwood fit into that community? How do you figure out the specific challenges that you can help address?

We're still learning. We are a well-resourced, majority white organization, so especially when it comes to things like food justice and social justice, we're not the experts. For example, with the Food Sovereignty Fund, the accountability council is really our guiding force. We have the time and the resources to facilitate the project, but we need input from folks who are on the ground distributing food and representing communities elsewhere in the Hudson Valley. 

We're trying to get more into language justice and offering more of our services in Spanish in particular, because there are tons of farm workers here whose first language is not English. Quite a few farmers are using the H-2A program to employ farm workers from Guatemala and Mexico. We try to have several bilingual events a year and are trying to translate as many written resources as we can. We also bought equipment for bilingual events that we are willing to rent out to other entities for free, because we think that language justice should be more widespread. That was in large part inspired by the Hudson Valley Farm Hub who already had that model in place.

One thing that we have to remind ourselves of is that efficient work is not always the best work. You want to see change really fast, but it's slow, intentional work in which you involve stakeholders that can help you better achieve your goals in the long run. 


Slow, intentional work—that reminds me of the Yale Farm! Could you tell me about your time there? 

The Yale Sustainable Food Program was a wonderful and influential part of my college experience. I started volunteering at the Farm my first-year fall and was working as a culinary events manager by the following spring semester. I loved being able to be outside every Friday, rain or shine, and to learn some awesome culinary skills from Jacquie. The Chewing the Fat speaker series was also amazing. That was the first time that I heard Leah Penniman [of Soul Fire Farm], Michael Twitty [author of The Cooking Gene]. The lineup was just incredible, and it opened up a new dimension of food and agriculture and environmentalism to me.

Graduate Student Food Insecurity | Workday and knead 2 know feat. Kiera Quigley and Destiny Treloar

Now is the time to stop and smell the roses—as well as the apple blossoms, daffodils, and all the other flowers blooming on the Farm. On Friday, students practiced attuning to their senses and centering in the moment as part of a mindful kala practice led by Shruti Parthasarathy ’24, co-president of the Yale Student Mental Health Association. Participants took a break from the workday for a session that combined bharatanatyam, a form of Indian classical dance, with mindfulness meditation. They returned to the fields refreshed and ready to weed the peas, hops, and asparagus.

After the workday, students headed up to the Lazarus Pavilion for a knead 2 know by Kiera Quigley MEM ’23 and Destiny Treloar MESc ’23 about food insecurity amongst students at the Yale School of the Environment (YSE). Kiera and Destiny shared the campaign that began during their class “Organizing: People, Power, and Change.” After settling on the topic of food insecurity, the students disseminated a survey among YSE students that aimed to understand the scope of the problem and potential solutions. They found that one-third of YSE students experience food insecurity—compared to the national average of 10 percent. Rates of food insecurity are even higher among PhD students (compared to master’s students), first-generation students, low-income students, BIPOC students, and Latinx students. 

Respondents identified a range of barriers to consistent food access. Cost was the most significant problem for food-insecure students, in addition to a lack of transportation. Kiera pointed out that many YSE students live in East Rock, a neighborhood which lacks a large, affordable grocery store. The majority of respondents, both food-insecure and not, also indicated that lack of time was also a problem: many students don’t have the spare hours to shop and cook for themselves.

Students suggested a range of possible solutions. The most commonly proposed initiatives were increased stipends and financial aid. Others advocated for better transportation and shuttle options to local grocery stories, a community food pantry or fridge, community organizing to bring more affordable food stores to the area, and efforts to transport leftover food from campus events to an accessible location. 

Kiera, Destiny, and their classmates have shared these results widely. They organized a banner drop publicizing their findings in the YSE graduating class photo. They have also spoken with the Graduate and Professional Student Senate and with the YSE administration, and they plan to discuss their findings in a forthcoming publication.  

We thank Kiera and Destiny for sharing their important work with us, and we thank all the students who joined us for their presentation and at last Friday’s workday. We hope to see you at our last pizza workday of the semester this Friday, with a workday at 2:00 PM and a knead 2 know at 4:15 PM by Diego Ellis Soto, a PhD candidate in the department of Ecology & Evolutionary Biology, about his work turning the Yale Farm birdsongs into music. Photos from the workday by Reese Neal ’25 are available here.

Alumni Interviews | Sophie Mendelson '15

As the weather gets warmer, nothing sounds better than the sweet, cold taste of an ice cream sandwich. As co-founder and operations director of Sugarwitch Ice Cream Sandwiches, Sophie Mendelson ’15 is there to sate that summertime craving. Her St. Louis shop offers a range of frozen delicacies, all named after famous witches of literature. Whether you’re in the mood for an Ursula (vanilla ice cream, rainbow sprinkles, and a salty brownie) or a Zeniba (sencha tea ice cream with a nori rice crispy treat), Sugarwitch has something to offer. Sophie sat down with Communications Manager Sadie Bograd ’25 to share the story behind the scoops. 

This conversation is part of a Voices series about the exciting work YSFP alumni are doing in the worlds of food and agriculture. The transcript has been edited lightly for length and clarity.

Sophie (right) told Voices: “If kid me could see that I get to be making ice cream and recommending my favorite fantasy books to people, I would just be so overjoyed.”

Tell me about Sugarwitch! How did it get started? 

My wife Martha started making ice cream sandwiches and bringing them into work as a distraction in the wake of the 2016 election, and they were a hit. So I started making them and feeding them to my classmates, and they were also a hit there. We had daydreamed casually about trying to make it a business. When we found ourselves in Columbia, Missouri, as grad students, we were like, “Okay, let's give it a go.” We naively thought that we'd have a lot of free time in the summer as grad students, which wasn't true, but we took about a year researching all the regulations and getting set up, and then we started production in 2019. We just did it over the summer for the first couple of summers, selling at the farmers market. But it became something we didn't want to let go of, even when it wasn't necessarily practical. When Martha got a full time job in St. Louis at the end of 2019, we decided not to stop. That's when we really started looking for a more permanent space. We ended up in what is St. Louis's longest continually-operating bakery. Since then, we've been growing our team and just really enjoying St. Louis as our home.


Why ice cream? And why ice cream sandwiches?

Both Martha and I made a lot of ice cream growing up. My mom says that I used to talk about starting an ice cream shop when I was little. So if we were going to do something, it was going to be ice cream. The sandwiches came about because it was the best way that Martha could think of to make the ice cream more shareable. Bringing a tub of ice cream into an office is one thing: you need a scoop and bowls and spoons, and people have to feel like they can go into the freezer and scoop themselves some ice cream from the communal bucket. But with ice cream sandwiches, you have these little packets that everybody can grab. And then we were intrigued by the constraints of the ice cream sandwich and the creativity that it demanded, because of the structural considerations that aren't so much of a thing when you're just making a pint of ice cream. 


What do you mean by structural limitations? 

We make a very high density ice cream. There's less air in our ice cream than you would often find even in a super-premium ice cream, because we need it to stand up as a structural element. We pour our ice cream into a sheet pan with a cookie on the bottom, put another giant cookie on top, and then we slice it all into squares. So it has to be able to withstand that process and be firm enough and strong enough to be sliced and moved around. 

The other thing is with the cookies themselves: how they slice, how they freeze. Is it something that you can bite into, or is it something that’s going to be a rock? We have three main categories of cookies that we riff on. One is a very fudgy thin brownie cookie. That fudginess — the moisture there, and the high butterfat — makes them freeze in a nicely biteable way. We do a lot of nut-based shortbreads because they have a wonderful frozen texture. And then we do a fair amount with Rice Krispie treats that we press really thin, that being an easy gluten free option.


Where does your flavor inspiration come from? 

A lot of it comes from nostalgia. We have a very collaborative flavor development process with our team, with nostalgic impulses drawing from a lot of different food backgrounds. Additionally, we rely on seasonally available produce in this area. We work with the farmers market and a farm delivery program out of Illinois. My master's degree was with the Agroforestry Center at the University of Missouri, so we do a fair amount with agroforestry crops that do well in Missouri and Illinois, like pawpaws and hazelnuts and pecans. And we of course draw flavor inspiration from what we see happening around us. St. Louis has a really wonderful food scene, so we do a lot of collaborations with other businesses and restaurants. It's fun to look at somebody's menu and think about what would complement what they're already doing.


I also noticed your website highlights sustainability and ethical labor practices. You talked about sourcing local and seasonal ingredients, but could you elaborate on the ethical labor practices? How do you think about using business as a mechanism for food systems change and sustainability?

Both Martha and I, as grad students and as undergrads, were academically looking at food systems. We both were drawn to the labor side of things and were seeing this real lack of sustainability within labor practices all along the food chain. That is obviously a massive and very complicated problem, but in starting Sugarwitch, our core question really was, “Can we make a company where sustaining livelihoods is the driving force of all of the choices that we're making?” Not to say that we have an answer to that question, but that’s the touchstone of any strategic choices that we make about growth, about hiring, about how we set up the schedule and what kinds of tasks we ask people to do and how much creativity people get. We try to pay a living wage, we offer PTO and sick time, we just started salarying people, and we are working on developing healthcare benefits — we just don't have enough full-time employees yet to qualify. Those are some of those structural things that we are thinking about. A lot of what we've done, I don't think anybody would advise us to make these choices from a strict business perspective, because they go against the conventional logic of how you prioritize and where you want your margins to be. But what is the point of the company if we can't make it create these livelihoods for folks? The more that we prioritize the team and everybody's wellbeing, the stronger the company is. 

We are also in the process of converting to a worker-owned cooperative structure. We’re working with WashU’s legal entrepreneurship clinic, so this awesome group of law students is helping us draft an operating agreement and bylaws. It's slow going because there aren't a ton of resources in Missouri, specifically on the financial side of things. We have a lot of questions about the tax implications for staff who then become members of the coop. Finding a CPA who can actually explain that has been really difficult. That, to me, is another critical part: not only saying, “You have wonderful ideas, and I want your help with flavor development and your vision for the cafe,” but also, “You have actual ownership in this entity, and because we are all contributing to its ability to thrive, we will ideally all benefit from that as well.”


What else have been some of the biggest challenges of running a business?

Having zero business background has been quite challenging. We're self-teaching and we're figuring everything out from scratch. But we've also had tremendous mentorship from other businesses and people we can ask questions of, so it is possible to do it. It’s helpful to know the conventions before you break them. I am somebody who really likes to plan, and diving into this unknown territory has really challenged me to loosen my grip on the idea that I will know ahead of time exactly where I'm heading. I think that goes hand in hand with the desire for this to be a collaborative effort. Having a team of people working on it, and not just being one lone individual trying to make a go of things, is absolutely critical. 


I noticed that your menu is all witch-themed. Where did that idea come from?

It came from the sandwich pun. We’re both really big readers, and I have always loved fantasy and science fiction. And it was a way to keep it fun and lighthearted. It's been an awesome way to connect with both kids and adults. The partner of one of our staff members works for a bookstore in town, so we do a lot of collaborative events. I think we're going to be able to stock some of the books that we named the ice cream sandwiches after. If kid me could see that I get to be making ice cream and recommending my favorite fantasy books to people, I would just be so overjoyed. 


Given what you're saying about being able to appeal to children, who is your target audience?

We've done our best to not settle too hard into a specific target audience. But the other side of that is that we are very vocal about our politics. We have developed a following that is very on board with the fact that we talk on our social media about funding abortion and trans kids’ rights. So in that sense, our target audience are people who are down for that type of messaging, and we have really cultivated a wonderful and very queer customer base. 

In terms of the types of flavors we do, we kind of span the range from very classic Americana flavors, like vanilla sprinkle brownie, to flavors that are derived from the cultural backgrounds of our staff, as well as some of the more out-there ideas that we have, more culinary flavors that we're seeing and wanting to play with. We have people who come in and are like, “I want the Ursula every time, I want the vanilla sprinkle brownie, and I never need to try anything else,” and that is great. And then we have folks who are like, “Give me everything with tea in it. Give me all of your herbal flavors.” We have fun spanning that range.


Could you tell me about your involvement with the YSFP?

When I was a student, I started out as a pizza intern my freshman year. I did that for two years and had a phenomenal time learning to work the pizza oven. But I was also super interested in the production side of things, and I transitioned over to the farm manager team for my junior and senior year. The summer following graduation, I helped run the internship program. 

The Farm really felt like it was my home at Yale. There were a lot of things that I was figuring out about myself in college. I had a lot of anxiety, though I wouldn't realize until later that I could put that name to it. But the YSFP was a place where I felt at ease and got to do tangible things. I had spent the year before college working on farms and working in kitchens, and it was kind of an odd transition back into the classroom. To have that continued opportunity through the YSFP really eased the transition and helped me maintain some of the confidence that I had developed in that year, and gave me a space where some of the pressures and expectations of the rest of the university got to fall away a little bit. 

Maple Syrup and Canadian Identity | Workday and knead 2 know feat. Sasha Carney ’23

Spring is in full swing on the Farm! The dandelions are popping, the tulips are blooming, and the sun is out. On Friday, students, clad in extra sunscreen on an abnormally warm afternoon, spent the workday weeding the asparagus and sage beds, turning over our cover crops with shovels, scuffle hoeing beds to prep for the planting of sweet potatoes, and tending to the chickens, (who are laying beautiful blue eggs, by the way!). The groundwork is being laid—literally—for a productive summer. 

After a great effort on the Old Acre, students headed over to the Lazarus Pavilion for some pizzas, topped with delicious produce like fresh mushrooms, potatoes, and squash puree. Students gathered to hear Sasha Carney ’23 present their knead 2 know about maple syrup and Canadian Identity. Carney was a 2022 Yale Farm Summer Intern and this research was part of their independent summer research project, which involved writing a short fiction story that wove in themes of maple of Canadian identity. Read Sasha’s post about their project here.

Carney talked about the role of the maple tree in the Canadian imagination and national education system—maple sugar shack visitation is a mandatory part of the curriculum for all Canadian students. Carney discussed the prevalence of maple in Canadian literature, and how Canadian national pride relates to its natural resources. They discussed how identities in Canada had botanical affiliations—i.e., the English were coined the “roses,” the Irish the “thistles,” etc.—and how the maple tree came to symbolize a kind of colonialist unity. Maple sugaring, a practice long embodied by Indigenous communities in Canada, was taken and presented as French Canadian culture. Carney also presented the work of a collaborative called Oh-oh Canada, which makes the nation’s popular maple sugar candies in shapes that symbolize painful and under-recognized aspects of Canada’s history and erasure of Indigenous peoples. It was a fascinating talk, and timely, given that it sugaring season lasts through April. 

There are only two more Friday workdays and knead 2 knows left this semester, and we’d love to have you join us. We’ll see you back on the Farm this Friday; there will be another workday at 2:00 PM and a knead 2 know at 4:15 PM by Kiera Quigley MEM ’23 and Destiny Treloar MESc ’23. Photos from the workday by Reese Neal '25 are available here. 

10th Annual Melon Forum | April 12, 2023

On April 12, 2023, from 5:00 – 7:00 P.M., the Yale Sustainable Food Program hosted its tenth annual Melon Forum at St. Anthony Hall, where ten Yale seniors presented senior theses relating to food and agriculture: Gavrielle Welbel, Meredith Ryan, Kayleigh Larsen, Brianna Jefferson, Ben Christensen, Catherine Webb, Caroline Beit, and Lucie Warga, majoring in subjects from Environmental Studies to Economics. Raphael Berz and Michael Min contributed their prospectuses to our 2023 Melon Forum brochure. Virginia Davis ’23 planned and led the event. The students’ projects ranged across disciplines, methodologies, and theories, utilizing novel approaches to tackling wicked problems in food systems. To view the Melon Forum brochure, please visit this link.

Lucie Warga ’22 began the event with her presentation, assessing the socio-political climate influencing school nutrition standards in the last decade. Drawing from archival research and discussing cultural norms, Warga engaged in an interdisciplinary exploration of food standards for students in U.S. schools.

Following Warga, Meredith Ryan ’22 explained how she used remote sensing and Google Earth Engine to analyze how the Russia-Ukraine war impacted agricultural production in Ukraine. Ryan used sensing technologies to analyze different types of wavelengths absorbed and reflected by chlorophyll in regions of interest to determine the impact of the war on agricultural yields. 

Presentations focused not only on fluctuations in geography, but also on their shifting relationships with the people and environments around them. Catherine Webb ’22 highlighted the Shinnecock Kelp Farmers, a collective of six Shinnecock women  who work to steward the land amidst “social geographies of antagonists and potential allies,” she wrote. Their ancestral relationship with kelp guides their present-day work in kelp farming. Themes of protection, spirituality, and connection imbued Catherine’s thoughtful presentation. 

“You can’t talk about hunger without talking about race,” said Kayleigh Larsen ’22. Larsen’s presentation explored American food politics, activism, and power from 1964 – 1973. Through three case studies—one of which highlighted the Black Panther Party’s free breakfast program—she examined how grassroots organizers used food systems to contest values of an oppressive society. 

Next, Gavrielle Welbel ’22 presented their long-term research on rock weathering in agricultural settings through analyzing carbon dioxide removal, crop yields, and soil pH. In conjunction with a team of researchers and farmers, Welbel studies rock weathering at Zumwalt Acres, a farm which they co-steward in Sheldon, IL.

Next, Brianna Jefferson ’22—advised by YSFP Director Mark Bomford—presented on the intersections of hydroponics and environmental justice. Through interviews with companies in the Northeast and Florida, Jefferson investigated large hydroponic companies’ purported commitment to environmental justice and local communities. She found that while the companies’ commitments were largely opaque, they did at times positively impact communities by providing job opportunities in underserved areas. 

Jefferson’s presentation was followed by Caroline Beit ’22, whose project on the history of breastfeeding in American prisons tracked court cases and political visions of breastfeeding. Studying the racialized double-standards of white and Black women breastfeeding their children, Beit analyzed the effects of court decisions that have affected the accessibility and legality of breastfeeding in carceral settings. While breastfeeding has been repeatedly criminalized, other court decisions have elevated breastfeeding as a constitutional right. 

Finally, Ben Christenen ’22 presented a graph-theoretical project on human population clusters as a function of geography. “People tend to live where they can grow food,” he said. Christensen  used computational methods to explore the geographic conditions conducive to supporting large populations, and considered if natural geographic clusters correlated with canonical ideas of “regions.” 

Around forty students gathered to watch these seniors present their culminatingYale academic works. The YSFP provided wine, a variety of cheeses, and sweet treats. We hope you’ll join us next year at our 11th annual Melon Forum. 

To view photos from the event, please follow this link. Photos by Reese Neal ’25. 

Tapping the Yale Farm Maples | Philipp Hoehme

Post by Philipp Hoehme

Everyone likes the taste of sweet maple syrup, but not everyone has produced their own maple syrup by tapping a tree in their own garden.

This year, Philipp Hoehme – an international student at The Forest School – tried his hand at tapping a maple tree for the first time using the big sugar maple at the Yale Farm’s entrance on Edwards Street.

In tapping this tree, he aimed to test the methodology he will use to collect data for his master’s thesis. Through this thesis, he will tap several trees located at different elevations in southern Germany and investigate the effect of elevation on the syrup yield. Outside of this main research question, he will also provide general data on the feasibility of producing maple syrup in southern Germany.

The motivation for his master’s thesis comes from his study experience in Quebec at Laval University where he discovered the tradition around maple tapping. Director of Forest & Agricultural Operations Joseph Orefice, who runs a sugar bush at Yale Myers Forests, contributed his motivation and provided Philipp the knowledge about how to tap a maple tree.

Philipp tapped the big sugar maple on the Yale Farm on February 16th, 2023. Tapping a maple tree is relatively easy. For tapping and collection, Philipp drilled a 2-inch-deep hole into the tree, plugged a spout in this hole, and collected the sap coming out of the tree in a bucket. To reduce contamination of the sap, Philipp used a spout directing the sap into a tube connected to a bucket with a lid.

After installing the tap, Philipp measured the sugar content and the sap volume once a week. These two variables are needed to estimate the amount of syrup that can be produced per tree.

Since tapping is dependent on certain weather conditions occurring mainly during the end of the winter, the tapping season must end at some point. This year, the last sap flow at the Yale Farm was noted on March 26, 2023.

During this tapping period lasting from February 16th to March 26th, the tree produced about 46.6 liters of sap with an average sugar content of 2.2%. This would be enough sap to produce 1.23 liter of syrup or 0.316 gallons of syrup, which is about the average syrup yield in Connecticut.

Using the maple tree at the Yale Farm, Philipp successfully tested his research methods. He will now implement them in Germany for his research. Maybe one day, we will see German maple syrup.

 

Systemic Change with Food Systems Policy | Workday and knead 2 know feat. Nisreen Abo-Sido

The warm spring weather has brought new life to the Farm. The chickens are back in their coop, their clucks mixing with the sound of human conversations. At last Friday’s workday, students nurtured the Old Acre's budding sprouts: sowing snow peas, weeding our asparagus and sage, and scuffle-hoeing the fertile soil in the garlic beds. They got their hands dirty turning over the soil in a field which has lain fallow for the last five years—a task that left dirt caked under many fingernails—then headed to the Lazarus Pavilion for fresh pizza topped with mushrooms, pesto, and three kinds of potatoes. 

While students ate, they listened to a knead 2 know from Nisreen Abo-Sido MEM '23, a YSE-YSFP liaison and Agroforester-in-Residence at the Farm. Abo-Sido’s undergraduate education was in the hard sciences, but after a fellowship living and working in rural communities internationally, she developed an interest in the economic, social, and political factors that shaped farmers’ abilities to earn a living and employ sustainable, agroecological practices. Abo-Sido shared her insights from working with New Haven’s Food System Policy Division (FSPD) last summer, where she explored how policy can create systemic change and promote more environmentally sustainable and just food systems. She connected contemporary inequities in food systems to the legacies of redlining and urban renewal, noting, “If policy was a part of the problem, we can also imagine that policy needs to be a part of the solution.” Eighty percent of New Haven residents live within half a mile of an urban farm, community garden, or farmer’s market, but there are still barriers to access, like a lack of information and financial resources, the absence of citywide efforts to connect urban growers with market opportunities, and continuous disinvestment in Black and Brown communities. 

Participatory processes are crucial to changing these systems, as seen in FSPD initiatives like the Community Advisory Board. The Division has also received a USDA grant to increase education and access to “specialty crops”—fruits, vegetables, tree nuts, and other non-commodity crops. With the grant money, they are running community workshops on topics like beekeeping, connecting farmers and cooks within New Haven, and establishing a seed library in community spaces. In addition, the FSPD is working to expand values-based procurement practices. 

Many thanks to Abo-Sido for her informative and thoughtful presentation. We also thank all the students who joined us last Friday, and those who visited the Farm on Saturday for Battle of the Bands, where student performers competed for a chance to perform at this year’s Spring Fling. This week, we’ll have another workday at 2:00 PM and a knead 2 know at 4:15 PM by Sasha Carney ’23. Photos from the workday by Reese Neal '25 are available here.

Environmentalism and Anti-fatness | Workday and knead 2 know feat. Austin Bryniarski and Samara Brock

The weather was gray and windy, but spirits were warm and bright at our first workday of the semester. With tendrils of spring sprouting across the Farm, students broke ground in our fields, using shovels and hoes to turn and level the soil in preparation for peas and other crops. Others headed to the strawberry patch to gather leaf litter and give the berries space to grow. Many of the strawberries are sending off runners, or horizontal sprouts that must be pruned to leave room for others. Although their leaves are still brown, the plants are hale and hearty: according to farm manager Jacob Slaughter ’24, “they just haven’t woken up yet.” Meanwhile, our newest culinary events managers, proudly wearing our new YSFP hoodies, went for a tour of the Old Acre, where they learned about the many pizza toppings we can anticipate in coming weeks — garlic chives, anyone? On the other side of the Farm, Slifka Center affiliates gathered to harvest parsley and horseradish for Passover seder. 

With dirt under their fingernails and smiles on their faces, students returned to the Lazarus Pavilion for some long-awaited pizza. The team did not disappoint, slinging out pies layered with roasted garlic, sweet potato puree, caramelized onion, kale, and much, much more. Attendees then sat down for an engaging knead 2 know by YSE doctoral candidate Samara Brock and former Lazarus fellow Austin Bryniarski '16 YSE '19, in which they discussed their article, “How anti-fatness crept into the environmental sustainability movement.” Brock and Bryniarski explained that a growing number of environmentalists have started to promote the concept of “metabolic food waste”—the idea that fat people eat too much and therefore have a greater negative impact on the environment. The flaws with this theory are manifold. Firstly, it misunderstands the science of weight and metabolism while perpetuating fatphobia, discrimination, and the erroneous and damaging belief that fat people are “failed thin people.” The speakers quoted author and fat activist Virgie Tovar, who said, “Fat people are a natural part of human diversity, and if there are not fat people in the future, then that future has failed on some level.” In addition, it maintains a focus on individual consumption decisions rather than on systemic change to food systems, choosing to scrutinize the fat body while obscuring the bodies of farmworkers and others who are harmed by unsafe labor conditions, pesticide use, and more. 

After a thoughtful Q&A, attendees returned to conversations over pizza, accompanied by the songs of a cappella group Something Extra. 
Thank you to Brock and Bryniarski for their presentation, and to all those who spent the afternoon with us. Next week, we’ll be back on the Farm for a workday at 2:00 and a knead 2 know at 4:15 by Nisreen Abo-Sido MEM '23. Photos from Friday can be found here.

Thinking with Paint | Knead to know feat. Eli White ‘25

On Friday, March 3, students gathered in the Office of LGBTQ Resources over steaming bowls of salad, rice, black beans, cheddar cheese, and salsa, talking midterms, summer plans, and the community’s eager anticipation to return to the Old Acre this spring. The meal held a special significance for this week’s k2k speaker Eli White ’25, who interned on the Yale Farm last summer, helping to grow the beans that the community enjoyed. 

In addition to farm work, Eli spent a significant portion of their summer rendering the Old Acre in water color paint. In their presentation, titled “Thinking with Paint,” Eli discussed the primary theme that guided their work: beauty, and the meaning of the word beyond a visual sense. Eli argued that the beauty of food and agriculture is about more than aesthetics; to Eli, beauty is deeply interconnected with concepts of joy and sacredness. The central argument of Eli’s project is that the beauty of places matters, and that aesthetics are something that must be expressed, not qualified. 

Eli took a watercolor class last spring and learned about concepts of balance in painting. They expressed how art can become a tool of cultural and historical storytelling, and shared their fascination with the “Solar punk aesthetic movement,” which utilizes narratives of the future that bring hope. To Eli, questions of beauty are related to issues of justice and the experiences that make life meaningful. 

Eli explained that they chose watercolor as their medium because it is highly portable. They spent the summer practicing painting from life, perched in different spots around the Farm. Eli said that painting from life is not about cementing memories, but about learning, and the experience of looking. 


They described the process of their culminating work “The Liberty Apple Tree,” a large watercolor work which took a whole month to complete. Eli worked from the same spot on the Old Acre, detailing the titular tree, the grasses, the hoop houses, and the birds that would fly in and out of frame. As Eli worked from the left side of the paper to the right, they chronicled the change in colors and tones over the weeks. When scanning across the page, you can see the colors become more dried out, mirroring the progression of summer and of Eli’s work. The painting now hangs in the YSFP office to foster a “collective sense of purpose,” in Eli’s words. 

In a memorable moment, Eli said that watercolor has modern form and lends itself to transience—“memories that are gone as they are arriving.”

Eli spoke of their experience growing up in the Southwest, and how their project helped them explore personal histories of growing up in agriculture environments. 

Eli’s experience practicing watercolor techniques taught them that “things are less about talent and more about practice and care.” Eli tried to discard ideas of right and wrong and focus on play; they also tried to bring this mentality in their farmwork. 


After Eli’s presentation, students stayed to ask questions, eat, and paint their own watercolors. In addition to personal paintings, students passed around a community painting, filling in with color a sketch Eli had made of the Farm. 

It was a wonderful afternoon of learning, reflection, and creativity. To view Eli’s artwork and read more about Eli’s experience this summer in their own words, we encourage you to read this Voices piece


There will be no knead 2 know this Friday. After spring break, we’ll be back on the Farm! Looking forward to seeing you then. Photos from the event can be viewed here.

Costa Rican Fisher Ecological Knowledge | Knead 2 know feat. Daviana Berkowitz-Sklar '23

Scientific data and lived experience are often portrayed as conflicting sources of information. But in last Friday’s knead 2 know, Global Food Fellow Daviana Berkowitz-Sklar '23 explained how these two ways of knowing complement each other in her analysis of Costa Rican billfish. 

Costa Rica is home to various fishing interests, including sport fishing.. Sport fishing mainly targets billfish, a group of large fish with pointed bills that includes blue marlin and sailfish. Sport fishing generates hundreds of millions of ecotourism dollars each year, but many sport fishing captains have reported a perceived decline in the billfish population. 

Stanford’s Project DynaMAR (Dynamic Marine Animal Research), the group with which Berkowitz-Sklar works, has used satellite tags to track billfish movement and create models of where billfish are located, but these tags are very expensive and not always accessible to other fishery research projects. Incorporating local ecological knowledge in these models may be helpful to fill gaps in scientific data and to include local communities in the scientific process. Local fishers add a valuable perspective, as they observe the state of the billfish fishery on a daily basis, including at times when scientists are not present.

To document fishers’ knowledge, Berkowitz-Sklar conducted semi-structured interviews with 54 sport fishing captains in six different fishing communities along Costa Rica’s Pacific coast. She asked interviewees about the availability of billfish, how far offshore captains traveled to fish, whether this distance had changed over time, and what threats the billfish population faced. She also engaged fishers in a participatory mapping process, giving interviewees a map of the region and asking them to circle the best areas to find sailfish and blue marlin. 

Berkowitz-Sklar is generating habitat suitability models by combining the participatory map data with other environmental predictors that fishers had indicated were important, like bathymetry (the topography of the ocean floor), chlorophyll-a levels, and sea surface temperature. These kinds of models can be used to predict not only where billfish currently reside, but also where their populations might move and what regions are most in need of conservation as ocean conditions change. She will look at fisher-mapped billfish distributions and  DynaMAR’s satellite tag data side-by-side to explore how ecological knowledge and scientific methodologies can work together.  

In addition to gathering information from local fishers, Berkowitz-Sklar wants to ensure that her research is useful for her interviewees. To that end, she is writing a report and creating infographics to share with local fishers, and she presented her findings to Costa Rica’s Ministry of Fishing. In the future, Berkowitz-Sklar also plans to conduct similar interviews with other fishers in other fishing industries to include a wide range of perspectives.

We thank Berkowitz-Sklar for her insightful knead 2 know and hope her work inspires future Global Food Fellows. We also thank all those who joined us for warm soup, crusty bread, and fresh chili oil (homemade by Caitlin Chung ’25). This Friday, former Yale Farm Summer Intern Eli White ’25 will deliver our last indoor knead 2 know of the semester, as they present their work on the aesthetics of food and agriculture — and give attendees a chance to make their own watercolor paintings. We’ll be back on the Farm after spring break.

Vermont Land Ethics | Knead 2 know feat. Katie Michels

Yale students gathered over bowls of warm sweet potato soup last Friday for a knead 2 know from Katie Michels MESc '23, MBA '24. Michels spent last summer driving around Vermont as a Global Food Fellow, interviewing both conventional and organic livestock farmers about their relationships with the land. Michels positioned her interviews in the context of longstanding tensions between local farming and environmental communities over water quality and other issues. Farmers’ perspectives are often silenced or marginalized, but Michels wanted to give those perspectives their due, asking weighty questions like “What does stewardship mean to you?” and “Why do you manage your land in the ways that you do?” 

The answers she received were as varied as the farms she visited. Michels said it was difficult to draw themes from her 21 semi-structured interviews, but she identified a few cross-cutting motivations underpinning her subjects’ land management practices. Many farmers cited ecological incentives: this grass keeps the songbirds coming back, or this crop keeps carbon in the soil. Others referenced a dedication to their community or expressed a desire to raise their children on a farm. Farmers of all backgrounds and beliefs displayed a strong independent streak. As one of them told Michels, “I think the decision to farm was that I didn’t have to apologize for my lifestyle… that it was defensible.” 

Although Michels aimed to interview an even mix of conventional and organic farmers, she found that conventional farmers were much less willing to speak with her, perhaps because of the intense media scrutiny commodity farmers often face, in contrast with the valorization of small-scale, direct-market operators. Among the five conventional farmers she interviewed, a focus on feeding people was a consistent theme. One conventional farmer said she wouldn’t adopt organic practices because she wanted to be able to sell her ground beef at five dollars a pound—to ensure that “more than just the college professors can access the food.” Michels described how conventional farmers are constrained by markets. Many of them use ecologically-sensitive techniques, but choose not to sell into the organic market because of the challenges of obtaining certification and the downward price pressure in the industry. “We have a country that doesn’t pay very much for food, and that comes on the backs of farmers,” Michels noted. 

Certain limiting factors also kept reappearing in Michels’ conversations. The weather was intense last summer, and the labor market was tight. Farmers told Michels that even if they offered employees twice as much as they paid themselves, they couldn’t get enough applicants. Knead 2 know attendees also asked questions about the role of technology in land stewardship. Michels mentioned that the Natural Resources Conservation Service (a technical assistance agency at the U.S. Department of Agriculture) has been pushing farmers to implement expensive, tech-driven solutions. Farmers face a difficult decision: these innovations would reduce labor expenses, but create a long-term dependence on technology companies. At the same time, Michels highlighted the ways in which farmers have adapted to a changing tech world. Almost everyone she interviewed used smartphones to help manage their farms, for example. 

Michels hopes to share her findings with technical assistance providers and policymakers. She is partnering with the American Farmland Trust to do a larger survey focused on similar questions. We thank Michels for her willingness to share her findings with us, and hope future Global Food Fellows take inspiration from her thoughtful approach to her research. Photos from the event can be found here.

Join us at future winter knead 2 knows at 12:30 PM at the Office of LGBTQ Resources (135 Prospect St). We’ll be back outdoors at the Yale Farm after spring break.

Fungi Communities l k2k Friday, February 17

On Friday, February 17, a rainy afternoon, students gathered in the Office of LGBTQ resources on Prospect Street for lentil soup, fresh bread, and some agricultural learning. While the Old Acre has been quiet during these cold winter months, the YSFP community has been staying warm, connected, and engaged in food systems work, continuing our Friday learning tradition with indoor knead 2 know discussions. 

This week, students gathered to hear Raina Sparks ’25, a 2022 Yale Farm Summer Intern, share what she learned about mycorrhizal fungi networks, which are fungi that interact with plant roots, forming complicated and extensive mutualistic connections. 

After spending her gap year working on an organic farm, Raina has been fascinated by the complex nature of fungi. They began their presentation with slides of various mushrooms they’ve found hiking around New England. For their project this summer, Raina attempted to grow Blue Oyster Mushrooms. She walked attendees through the process of inoculation and pasteurizing substrates, experimenting with materials like burlap, wheat, and rye. Raina left the mushrooms in a cool, dark spot in the YSFP office to grow. While Raina didn’t end up with giant blue oyster mushrooms as expected, she did grow some small, endearing mushrooms, and she’s eager to try again. 

Raina originally intended to complement their summer project with online research. After their computer broke unexpectedly in the middle of the summer, they pivoted and made a series of gorgeous oil pastel drawings inspired by mycorrhizal fungi, letting their imagination run wild with “adult crayons.” The very nature of her art medium, Raina emphasized, is an encapsulation of the spirit of fungi. Just as the colors of pastels bleed, combine, and overlap, so too do fungal networks; the organisms are “playful and collaborative.” Raina’s art pieces spoke to themes of nourishment, abundance, and mutualism. She also spoke about the history of the Blue Oyster Mushroom; growing the mushrooms became more commonplace during World War I to address food scarcity. Americans have come to rely on mushrooms for their heartiness—they are now a commonplace meat substitute. 

Last semester, Raina took Professor Marlyese Duguid’s Forest Dynamics course at the Yale School of the Environment, in which she made mycorrhizal fungi the subject of the course’s annotated bibliography research project. Raina shared their additional findings from this work, elaborating on the impacts of varying soil CO2 and nitrogen levels. Raina discussed fungi’s responsiveness to environmental disturbances; fungi are incredibly attuned to changes in their host plant and are able to bounce back quickly. 

To end her k2k, Raina extrapolated on the connected nature of fungi networks as allegory and blueprint for human communities. They discussed how they came to see fungi as symbolic of the power of mutualistic care and impact. It was a fascinating talk, and we would love to see you at the next one! Join us at 12:30 P.M. in the Office of LGBTQ Resources at 135 Prospect St. No registration is required. 

Alumni Interviews | Chloe Zale '12

Busy college students across the country are familiar with Chloe Zale’s cooking, although most of them don’t know it. Zale is a senior recipe developer at HelloFresh, a meal kit company which sends its customers a weekly box of recipes and pre-measured ingredients. The 2012 alumna took a circuitous path from prepping pizzas on the Yale Farm to crafting meals in a test kitchen — she was a strategy consultant for seven years before going to culinary school. In this interview with YSFP communications manager Sadie Bograd ’25, she shares her insights on finding inspiration, in cooking and in life.

This conversation is part of a Voices series about the exciting work YSFP alumni are doing in the worlds of food and agriculture. The transcript has been edited lightly for length and clarity.

I want to start off by asking about recipe development. How do you craft a recipe from start to finish?

There are different organizations in which recipe developers have a home. People develop recipes for magazines or blogs, for meal kits like myself, or even for brands — someone could be hired by Betty Crocker to do seven things with some cake mix. But the end goal is typically to have a home-cook-friendly recipe that tastes the same way it did when it was developed in a test kitchen.

I start with an assignment from our product team, which is called a brief. They give me a protein, any operational constraints, and sometimes an inspiration or things not to do. So it could be “Chicken dish, and don't do Mexican because we have a lot of Mexican chicken dishes right now.” But that leaves a lot of options open. I get four of those every week, and for each of those briefs, I come up with a few ideas. I present them to my team in a brainstorming session, and we pick one idea for each of those briefs. 

From there, I actually write the recipe and cook it a couple times. Every time I cook it, my team tastes it, and we decide whether I need to change something. When everyone's aligned, someone else on the team will cross-test it to make sure that it is exactly the same as my version. Then it gets edited by our editorial team, laid out on a recipe card and sent to the customers who order it. From my brain to someone's plate, it could be up to six months. 

Customers can also see out six weeks in advance. And for the most part, there are no repeat recipes for any six-week period. So there are a lot of recipes in rotation.

Where do you find inspiration for all those recipes? Particularly, how do you think about exploring other cuisines that you're not as familiar with?

I would say our customer is relatively mainstream. So I'm not going to be doing anything crazy that you might find in a three Michelin star restaurant in New York. We would maybe look at the Cheesecake Factory as a restaurant for inspiration, or I look at cookbooks. Sometimes I come up with ideas completely out of the blue. 

As far as ingredients or recipes from other cultures, we have a limited set of ingredients available to us. There are occasions where I might need to use an ingredient that wouldn't be the most authentic. Let's say we want to make a paella from Spain. The ingredient that gives the rice its yellow color is saffron, but we do not have saffron as an ingredient. So for our paella dishes, we put a little bit of turmeric to color the rice. I personally try to do more cuisines that I have more familiarity with, but occasionally I will take inspiration from various world cuisines. I like to order food from restaurants in New York and try to emulate those dishes. 

I'm curious about this idea of making cooking approachable for a mainstream audience. How do you balance introducing your customers to new flavors with recognizing that they may view some foods and cuisines as more ‘adventurous’ than others? 

It's interesting because America is so hugely diverse. Our customer base is primarily white, but I don't want to make it seem like we're only catering to a white audience. I think that the most important thing for a company like HelloFresh is, if you're introducing a new flavor, can you do it in a familiar format? Like if we have a new Vietnamese sauce, can we put it in a stir fry with vegetables that people are used to? You may not get the perfect representation of how that dish would be made in its home country. But you introduce people to new ingredients, new flavors, and then as they become more familiar with them, you can add more and more complexity and interest, and people develop a palate over time for that.

It sounds like developing recipes is pretty complex. What are the hardest parts?

I think that the hardest part is nailing the flow, and making sure that it's an enjoyable cooking experience for someone at home. We don't want to have three pans going at the same time. It's about working backwards from the final plate — like, I know I need to have cooked zucchini and cooked rice and cooked chicken on this plate. If I'm going to be cooking the chicken on the stove and it takes this much time, maybe I need to do the zucchini in the oven and not on the stove, because otherwise the rice will be cold by the time the zucchini is cooked and the chicken is done.

Apart from the cooking itself, I would think there must be challenges in communicating the cooking process clearly. Are there skills that you've had to learn in terms of writing the recipes?

The most important thing when you're writing a recipe is to include as many sensory cues as possible. You want to make sure that you're touching on the way an ingredient looks when it's done, the way it smells. It's not just about time, because every stove has a different power; every oven is calibrated a little differently. I would never say, “Roast zucchini until it's done, 10 to 12 minutes.” You would give a “brown and tender” or “brown and fragrant” so that people can anchor on multiple elements of completion, not just a timeframe.

Shifting gears, could you tell me about your history with food and what made you want to be a recipe developer?

I am from New York City, and I still live here. When you live in New York, food is so deeply ingrained in the culture that it becomes key to your existence. As a kid, I remember doing taste tests all around New York with my dad, where we would find the best pizza or the best ice cream. We'd do research in the newspapers — there wasn't Yelp or anything like that back then — and we would try seven slices of pizza in different boroughs and take notes. It built this appreciation in me for refining something into its best form. 

That started to play out when I was a preteen. I think I was in fifth grade when I baked twelve batches of chocolate chip cookies. I tweaked one thing every time so that I could make my perfect cookie. I really liked that iterative process of cooking, tasting, refining, cooking again, tasting again, getting input from other people, and refining until it met my vision. That was foreshadowing that recipe development might be a career I was interested in. 

It was something that I didn't even really know was a career until I went to culinary school in 2019, after I had been a strategy consultant for seven years. I definitely had some other paths that I followed as a teenager and early adult. I studied opera, and when I got to Yale, I was really intense about singing for my first couple years. Then I realized that I did not want to be a professional opera singer. It wasn't the thing that lit me up. And I figured I should probably focus on something else. 

How did you find that “something else”? 

There was a college tea for an alum who was the vice president of Murray's Cheese, which is a fantastic cheese store in New York. I went home for Christmas break right after that. I was looking at all of the internships in the Yale career database, and they all looked so boring to me. I had this low moment where I was like, “I hate everything. What am I going to do with myself?” My dad sat me down and said, “Well, what do you like?” I was fresh off that cheese tasting, so I said, “I like cheese.” He said, “Why don't you do something with cheese, then?”

I emailed the Murray's VP and asked her if I could spend the summer working at Murray’s. She responded immediately and said, “Go for it. I'm going to connect you with my head of HR. You can rotate through all the different departments and learn all about cheese and food business.” I thought that sounded amazing. It sounded way more interesting than all of the PR and finance and marketing internships that were listed in that database. 

Wow! That sounds like an incredible opportunity for a Yale student. You were also involved with the YSFP as an undergrad. What was your experience like at the Yale Farm? 

When I came back from my summer at Murray’s, that was when I switched gears. I wanted to get involved with every food-related thing on campus. One of those things was the YSFP. As soon as the communications manager job popped up in the student job database, I applied for it. I didn’t necessarily want to work as a farm manager because I'm a city girl, and it felt a little too far afield. But the communications piece — talking to all the professors of food-related courses and assisting with the speaker series — that sounded super fun. The next year, I worked as an events and pizza intern. I loved that we were using Liuzzi local cheese and the vegetables from the Farm and making our own dough in the oven. It was such a special community. I worked at one event where René Redzepi from Noma came. We had a big meal at Miya’s and pulled out all the stops.

I know I've asked you a bunch of questions. Is there anything I didn't ask about that you want to mention?

I think it's important to underscore that life is long, and it's okay if it takes you a little while to find your calling. I found mine in college, and then I had a little diversion when I worked in consulting, but I gained so much from that experience. Even though at the time, I certainly had some existential strife, I ended up in a place that I'm really happy with. It’s important to listen to yourself and take advantage of opportunities when they come up. And when you do find something that you're passionate about, really go after it. Believing in yourself and your intelligence and seeking the things that call to you will make for a happy life.

Alumni Interviews | Emily Farr '14

From our landlocked Farm at the top of Science Hill, you might forget that New Haven is a coastal city. Not so for Emily Farr YC ’14 YSE ’17. After getting degrees in Geology and Environmental Management, Farr embarked on a career in aquatic food systems. Previously, she was a Fishery Management Specialist for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. She now works as Senior Fisheries Program Manager at Manomet, a nonprofit that uses science and collaboration to protect coastal ecosystems. She spoke with YSFP communications manager Sadie Bograd ’25 about the challenges and opportunities facing Maine’s fisheries. 

This conversation is part of a Voices series about the exciting work YSFP alumni are doing in the worlds of food and agriculture. The transcript has been edited lightly for length and clarity.

What does it mean to be a senior fisheries program manager? What does your day-to-day job look like? 

At Manomet, we're focused on building resilience in the fishing community in the Gulf of Maine. The area is changing rapidly due to climate change, gentrification, and other pressures that are happening along the coast. I support the fishing community and coastal communities in responding and adapting to that change. I work with shellfish harvesters out on the mudflats, I work with river herring harvesters. I do a lot of convening, bringing people together to share what they're learning and hearing and seeing, and then figuring out how we can collaboratively address the challenges they're facing.

Could you describe the landscape that you're working in?

There are fisheries that take place far out in the ocean, but the fisheries that I work in are mainly coastal. I primarily work with the shellfish fishery, which is mostly wild clams, both soft shell and hard shell. Those clams live in the mudflats, which are in the intertidal zone, between the high tide and the low tide line. Harvesters often walk out onto the flat; sometimes they take a boat. They often use a clam rake to get the clams out of the mud at low tide, while the mudflats are exposed.

And the river herring fishery — Maine is actually the only state that has a commercial fishery for river herring. The species spends most of its life in the ocean, then comes up into lakes and ponds to spawn in the spring. Some harvesters use nets, some of them have traps. In all of those cases, they're harvesting just a portion of the run and letting much of it continue upriver to spawn. It's a really cool fishery, because the harvesters are the stewards of that resource. They're responsible for monitoring it, for sending data to the state to help manage it, and so they play a critical role in making sure that it's a healthy species.


Why are fisheries so important and what challenges are they facing?

Fisheries, like all food production systems, are an important livelihood for thousands of people. Maine coastal communities are culturally and economically dependent on fisheries. Like people who farm, people who fish are always coming up with new ways to adapt to the pressures that they're facing. But that's not always easy to do, and it often requires support and collaboration. 

One of the biggest changes to ocean ecosystems today is that the water is warming quickly and species are shifting their ranges. Many of the species that people have long harvested in the Northeast are either moving North or moving further offshore, and new species are coming in. For example, lobsters are the most important fishery in Maine, and their range has started to shift. They are fished using pots — traps at the bottom with vertical lines in the water column. There have been increasing entanglements with right whales, not necessarily from the lobster fishery, but entanglement is a big risk, and it's a very endangered whale. The whale populations are also shifting, in part because their food source, plankton, is changing in its relative abundance. So climate change is creating all of these shifts in the places where species are and where their food is and where people are fishing, and it's creating these new conflicts with no easy solutions. 

I also mentioned gentrification along the coast. I work with shellfish harvesters who have to cross private property to access the intertidal mudflats where they work. They rely on informal agreements with landowners, but there's been a lot of turnover. Many of the new landowners don't understand that traditional use of the coast, so these harvesters are losing access.


How are you responding to that coastline development and privatization?

In Maine, shellfish are managed collaboratively between the state and municipalities. Each town is responsible for stewarding its own shellfish resource. We've been sitting down with the shellfish committees of the towns that we work closely with and mapping out where they currently access the coast to harvest. That hadn't been captured for a variety of reasons, partly because some of that information is sensitive and confidential: as a harvester, I might have a relationship with this landowner, and they allow me to cross their property to get to the flats, but they might not allow every other harvester in town to do that. But everyone agreed that change is happening so rapidly that we need to sit down and document where access is, and then figure out creative ways to preserve it. That looks like working with land trusts and thinking about easements on private property, or acquiring land that the town can use to allow access. The harvesters are doing landowner appreciation days, where they bring landowners together and share, “This is why clams are important. Let's all eat clams together, talk about the resource, build some relationships and trust.”


And what are some of the adaptations that you're investigating on the climate change side?

Another species that's been increasing in abundance in the Gulf of Maine is the invasive green crab. It's originally from Europe, and it's been in the Gulf of Maine for 200 years — it came over mostly in ballast water from ships. But it's really exploded in abundance as the water has warmed because it's a super resilient species. The green crab is an extremely voracious predator of shellfish, clams in particular, and it's creating a real pressure on that important resource. One of the things that we've been working on is developing a commercial fishery for green crabs, to help relieve that pressure on the ecosystem and create a new fishing opportunity for harvesters. 


Are there difficulties that arise in trying to convene people from so many different groups? Or unexpected partnerships? 

It's always challenging when people are speaking different languages and are coming from different backgrounds. Fishers, scientists, managers — their day-to-day lives look really different. But I think there's great success that comes out of bringing all those groups together on a regular basis. It really requires trust, and it requires true relationships. 

I facilitate a network of people working on river herring. There are harvesters, there are communities that volunteer to count the river herring as they're coming back into ponds, there are tons of scientists, there are managers at the state and federal and local level. We have this network that brings people together to share information and talk about what questions they want to answer and how they can partner. It’s been really gratifying to see how, as that network has continued, new relationships have formed. People are meeting outside of it to collaborate on projects. It’s slowly building trust, and that’s really great to see. 


What have been the barriers to building trust in the past?

Both fishermen and the management community are under different pressures and different mandates, and it's hard to be in someone else's shoes. There have also been regulatory decisions that people didn't agree with, and that has eroded trust. There wasn't necessarily a ton of listening from the management side in the past, and I think we've gotten better in that department. But trust is something that you have to earn, and it takes time. And it's harder to build back when it's lost.

One of the biggest examples in New England is the groundfish fishery, which includes cod. There was a population collapse in the 1990s, which led to new regulations, including the institution of a ‘catch shares’ system that allocated the right to fish based on your historic participation in the fishery. This was a problem for some of the smaller-scale fishers who had relied on the fishery but didn't have a huge amount of harvest, or who didn't fish for a few years, and so didn't end up getting access when the regulation changed. That created real conflict. 

Our work at Manomet is pretty much completely driven by what the fishing communities want to see. We're guided by their ideas and perspectives and knowledge. I think that's really important, because they've historically been excluded from decision-making arenas.


Could you tell me more about your roles at the YSFP? 

Oh, man. What roles didn't I have? I started as a farm intern the summer after my sophomore year, after volunteering every now and again. Then I was a farm manager for the next few years. I took notes at staff meetings for a semester. And then I spent the summer before grad school helping to support the summer internship work. When I was at YSE, I helped to manage the berms and the perennial beds.


Did your work on the Farm influence your choice of career or teach you any skills that you use now?

Definitely. My undergraduate geology degree was focused on climate science. Working at the Yale Sustainable Food Program, I was interested in the connection between food systems and climate change. I thought that fisheries and the ocean were an interesting place where those two things meet. When I did the summer internship, we visited the farm that Bren Smith was starting at the time. He now runs GreenWave, but he was growing and still grows kelp and oysters. We went out on his boat to see the farm and learn about that operation. That was one of my first real introductions to growing and harvesting seafood from the sea.

He talked about how he was using seaweed and oysters as both carbon cycling and buffering from storm surge. To me, that really clicked as, “We're growing food, and we're thinking about climate resilience at the same time. What does that look like in other parts of the ocean and in other seafood systems?” It was a really formative experience for me.

Fall Feast | Friday, November 11

Friday, November 11 looked a little different from the typical afternoon on the Yale Farm. Due to heavy rains, YSFP canceled the workday and moved Fall Feast, our final celebratory meal of the fall semester, to the Native American Cultural Center (NACC). 

Fall Feast is a yearly collaboration between NACC and YSFP. This year’s event was also cosponsored by the Native and Indigenous Student Association at Yale (NISAY); the Program in Ethnicity, Race, and Migration; and the Poorvu Center. 

Hi’ilei Kawehipuaakahaopulani Hobart, Assistant Professor of Native and Indigenous Studies, has partnered with YSFP since her arrival at Yale this fall. She brought students from her First Year Seminar, Indigenous Food Sovereignty, to the Farm for six visits over the course of the semester. Her students were an invaluable part of the preparations for the Feast. During their time on the Farm, the students put the Three Sisters to bed; threshed black turtle beans by hand; filled tea bags with Yale Farm-grown tea; milled corn and created cornbread mixes; chopped and roasted peppers; prepared the Three Sisters chili; and so much more, all in stewardship of the Three Sisters and in preparation for the Feast.

Erita Chen ’26, a student in the course, said the class’s visits to the Farm provoked “fascinating conversations about sustainable farming practices, labour, and capitalism…making for a unique discussion-based learning time.” 

Jaleyna Lawes ’26, another one of Professor Hobart’s students, reflected: “Fall Feast was a very fulfilling way to culminate our experience growing and preparing food on the Yale Farm in that same sense of community I felt threshing beans or cutting squash or spooning each of the Three Sisters into the chili pot. Every dish on my plate I could trace to a story or a lesson or a laugh on the Farm or in the classroom. Hearing from [Catherine Webb ’23,] the Seedkeeper, as well as about the Native food producers who contributed to the feast and other people who were a part of the process really fostered that feeling that those Farm visits were part of a larger community effort to bring food to the table.”

The Fall Feast menu centered beans, corn, and squash, the symbiotic indigenous polyculture known as the Three Sisters. The menu featured a Three Sisters chili, wild rice salad, beet poké, white cap & Ute Mountain blue cornbread, and chia pudding with popped amaranth and maple candied seeds. Students in ER&M040 had a hand in tending the Yale Farm beans, corn, squash, peppers, tomatoes, garlic, carrots, chilies, and eggs that contributed to the meal. We are grateful to Bow & Arrow Foods, Massaro Community Farm, NOH Foods of Hawai’i, Passamaquoddy Maple, Ramona’s American Indian Foods, Sweetgrass Trading Co., and Ute Mountain Tribe, the producers who supplied the meal’s other ingredients. 

Since 2017, YSFP has had a dedicated Three Sisters plot on the Farm. The NACC also has a garden where the Three Sisters are grown. Catherine Webb ’23, the YSFP and NACC Seedkeeper and programs liaison who has stewarded both these plots, offers reflections on her relationship with the Three Sisters in this poem. In her introduction, she also provides some of the history of planting the Three Sisters at Yale. Catherine notes that while she was the inaugural official link between NACC and YSFP, “Noah Schlager (Poarch Creek Band of Indians) and Kap`iolani Laronal (Haida/Tsimshian and Native Hawaiian) began the partnership and gardens in 2017,” when Noah Schlager YSE ’18 was a YSFP graduate student affiliate.

Attendees at this year’s Fall Feast (including Handsome Dan!) enjoyed the delicious meal, shared over warm conversation and community. To close out the event, Red Territory performed drum songs. 

YSFP extends our deepest appreciation to NACC, the YSFP Culinary Events Team, and all students and staff who made this event happen. We hope you’ll join us next year! 

Photos of the event can be found here

Learn more: Professor Hobart’s work was recently featured in this fascinating Yale Talk podcast, a conversation between Professor Hobart; Mark Bomford, Director of the Yale Sustainable Food Program; and Peter Salovey, Yale President, about agriculture, sustainability, food insecurity and sovereignty, and the role of scholarship therein.